So today didn’t exactly go as planned – too many tours, too little time! The first tours at Heaven Hill are at 10 and 10:30 depending on which one you choose – Piers wanted to do the shorter of the two, and so 10:30 is the first one they offer.
It was a 50-minute drive to Maker’s Mark where he went on the 1 o’clock tour which took about 1 hour 15 minutes. We went straight from there to Four Roses which was 40 minutes away to get there in time for the 3 pm tour. Because that tour is currently only 30 minutes we managed to make it to Wild Turkey Distillery which is just 8 miles away in time for the 4 pm tour – their last tour of the day.
Do you spot the problem? There was no time for lunch! Yes, the only way we could do it all was to go without. So – this is probably not a plan you want to replicate! If you really want to do all the stops on the trail and only have 3 days, you want to do Wild Turkey on the last day.
The commentary about the distilleries is from Piers – the rest is from me (Meryl).
First up on day two was Heaven Hill Bourbon Heritage Center. They have 2 tours, the cheaper one is actually longer and takes you into a Rickhouse, a barrel storage building. The majority of the tour is the history of Bourbon and Heaven Hill Distillery. At the end, you taste 3 whiskeys. No production or actual making of the bourbon.
The second is the Whiskey Connoisseur Experience. Again a bit of history, but this tour focuses on the tasting of some premium bourbons. You taste 4 bourbons and can take your glass home with you.
One interesting fact is that one of the reasons for the renaissance of bourbon around the world is that women are drinking more and more of it. This is, in part, because the Master Distillers began to replace rye with wheat in their recipes. Rye adds a spicy taste to the bourbon, whereas wheat makes it more palatable to many taste buds.
The Center has quite a few displays that give the history of bourbon. However, the tour was the least compelling of all the tours I have done. On the other hand, the bourbon that we tasted on the Connoisseur tour was outstanding.
Some of the brands include Elijah Craig, Henry McKenna and Larcency (one of my favorites).
Cost: Mashbill Tour – $10.00, Whiskey Connoisseur Experience – $20.00
Hours: Different hours dependent on the season, see website
Length of tour: Mashbill Tour – 1 hour, Whiskey Connoisseur Experience – 40 minutes
Parking: on site
This was the second stop on day two. So far, by far the most picturesque Stillhouse on the trail. The beauty was enhanced by the display throughout the property of Dale Chihuly’s blown glass artwork.
Bill Samuels the founder set out to make the kind of bourbon he liked, sweeter on the palate. He achieved this by a recipe heavy in corn (70%), no rye and the rest wheat and barley. And it is aged to taste, as opposed to a fixed time period. This usually means about 6 – 7 years in a barrel.
The other distinctive feature of Maker’s Mark bourbon is the bottle, the brainchild of Marjorie Samuels. The brandy shaped bottle, sealed with red wax helps the product stand out on the shelf.
The tour was well done, but the number of people on each tour meant that it was a little longer than most.
Cost: $12 for adults over 21
Hours: Monday – Saturday: 9:30 a.m. – 3:30 p.m. Sundays: 11:30 a.m. – 3:30 p.m.
Length of tour: 1 1/4 hours
From Maker’s Mark we sped over to the Four Roses Distillery to get there in time for the last tour in the afternoon (3 pm).
Many people may remember Four Roses as a cheap bourbon. This is because at one stage all the good stuff was exported. However, a few years back a Japanese company bought the distillery and began reviving the brand by producing world-class bourbon again. They have 10 recipes which ultimately produce 3 products. How does that work? Well for two of their products they combine barrels from the different recipes.
Their recipes (mash) are heavy in rye. This results in a more spicy flavor, but I found it very pleasant. Another feature is that their rickhouses are single story, resulting in less temperature variation. Their standard “Four Roses Bourbon” is aged about 6 – 6 ½ years, their “Small Batch” about a year longer and their Single Barrel about another year longer.
We visited while they were in the middle of a major renovation, which meant we couldn’t actually do a full tour (for which I was actually quite thankful). They had a good video explaining what makes their bourbon distinctive, and this was followed by a simple but functional tasting.
Hours: Monday – Saturday 9:00 a.m. – 3:00 p.m., Sunday 12:00 p.m. – 3:00 p.m.
Length of tour: currently about 30 minutes while there is construction
Parking: on site
** Note – the ticket for this tour allows you free access within 60 days to their Warehouse and Bottling Tour in Cox’s Creek.
Another good thing about the shorter Four Roses tour was that we could make it across to Wild Turkey in time for the last (4 pm) tour. Wild Turkey is one of the larger distillers, producing around 12 million liters of bourbon a year. This requires a very sophisticated process that is highly professional. The tour covers the full bourbon process, but by now, you should have the process down pretty well. Our tour guide was knowledgeable and affable, in the good old Southern tradition.
Their bourbon is high in rye content but aged longer than many of the others. The longer aging smoothes out the spicier flavors from the rye. I really like their product, especially the Wild Turkey Rare Breed and the Russel Reserve 10 Year Old.
Hours: Different hours dependent on the season, see website
Length of tour: about an hour
Parking: on site
Supper – Ginza Restaurant
We had driven a fair amount and rushed between places so much, that we were happy to discover, Ginza, a Japanese restaurant in walking distance from our Holiday Inn Express in Frankfort. You can have hibachi or sushi – we chose the latter. Their specialty sushis were rather expensive so we just opted for standard rolls. The food was fine, the service a little lacking though.
Bulleit is the brand. Stitzel-Weller is the location of the tour. It is a distillery that was born shortly after prohibition but which ran into trouble during the Bourbon Depression in the 70’s. The facility was sold to Norton-Simon which, through a series of take-overs and mergers is now part of Diageo, a massive worldwide operation. Diageo reopened the location in 2014 and it is now the home of the Bulleit tour.
The tour begins with the fascinating history of the area and bourbon in particular. It moves onto outlining the distilling process, using a useful model still. The tour covers areas that the other distilleries didn’t (at least on day one of our 3 day Bourbon Trail adventure). You go into a rickhouse (or rackhouse as it is sometimes known), where the bourbon is stored in the white oak barrels. You also get to see how leaking barrels are repaired by coopers. Production bourbon is not distilled at this location. Instead, they show you the test distillery where they experiment with new recipes and techniques.
The tasting experience was good. They offer you 4 different bourbons to taste. Bulleit has a higher rye content than the typical bourbon which gives it a unique flavor that I liked.
Cost: $10 for over 21. Under 21 are free
Hours: 10am until 4pm. Closed on Tuesdays. Tours leave on the hour or half hour depending on the day.
Length of tour: about 1 1/2 hours
Parking: on site
On day 1 of the Bourbon Trail, this was the only ‘production’ facility with a tour. Angel’s Envy is a fairly new operation and it was ‘state-of-the-art’.
The tour guide let us smell, taste and experience the product at the various stages of production. This was really helpful in understanding the process.
The still at Angel’s Envy
The tasting was very different to the other distilleries, born mainly out of necessity. Angel’s Envy produces one product, so there is only one bourbon to taste. However, they take the opportunity to teach how to really taste bourbon, including the use of chocolate to complement the bourbon experience. The last stage of the tasting includes the use of ice to open up the flavor of the bourbon. (Evan Williams adds a few drops of water to one stage of their tasting).
The experience at Angel’s Envy was quite different and complementary to the Bulleit Tour.
Hours: 10 am to 5 pm. No tours on Tuesday. MUST RESERVE TOURS IN ADVANCE!
Length of tour: About 1 1/2 hours
Parking: We parked in the street but there is also a lot opposite that costs $7
The addition of the word “experience” is a clue to the nature of this tour. Located in downtown Louisville, the Evan Williams Bourbon Experience is predominantly a “museum” type experience.
Through the use of video, actors, and sets, they take you back to the days of Evan Williams, one of the first whiskey producers in Kentucky, and to the early days of Louisville. As such it is a valuable history lesson. They have a great visual model of how bourbon is produced and there is a “model” still that produces one barrel of bourbon a day.
The tasting at the end of the tour was well done. We tasted 5 different bourbons including a 12-year-old bourbon which is available mainly in Japan.
As a side note, our tour guide was a stand-up comedian (literally) who obviously brought a good sense of humor to the tour.
Cost: Adults (21+) $12.00, Kids (11 – 20) $9.00, Kids (10 and under) FREE
Hours: Different hours, depending on the day. Check the website
Length of tour: About 1 hour
Parking: We parked in the lot right around the corner but there are also parking garages nearby
The only exercise we had the entire 3 days was walking to Art Eatables and then back to Jim Bean Urban Stillhouse and finally back to the car. The whole walk was about 30 minutes. Better than nothing, I guess!
At Angel’s Envy they strongly suggested everyone visit Art Eatables. So of course, we felt we needed to follow their advice. The shop owner greeted us with samples of chocolates with bourbon centers – very yummy! Everything in the shop is very tempting and we left with a box of store sampler of assorted chocolates.
The last stop on day 1 was to the Jim Bean Urban Stillhouse, also downtown Louisville. This really was a retail and tasting experience, without the tour. Having done 3 tours already on day one, I was happy to go straight to the tasting. Jim Bean is obviously a well-known brand, but under the stable of Jim Bean there are many other brands such as Knob Creek. You can taste nearly all of these at this location.
If you want to visit their distillery, you can find it in Clermont. You can get the stamp in your passport by visiting either.
Cost: $6 (includes a Jim Bean shot glass)
Hours: 1 to 9 pm Monday to Saturday (closed on Sundays)
Length of tour: The tasting takes about 15 minutes
Parking: There must be garages nearby but you can walk from Angel’s Envy or Evan Williams Bourbon Experience
I discovered this place on Tripadvisor and someone described it as a “hole-in-the-wall”, and that it was! But it was also a great find. The husband and wife team who run the restaurant are from Nepal and they were very concerned that we would have a good experience with them. We had a delightful conversation with them and learned what their lives were like in Kathmandu before they moved to the USA.
We enjoyed samosas, onion pakora, mo mos and biryani – all were delicious and the prices are excellent.
A month ago, Piers suggested we go to Kentucky over the spring break as he wanted to visit a few distilleries. He is interested in the craft of making bourbon as he is fascinated by the creative skill that is involved in the process.
He got a few suggestions of places to visit from friends, but when I started searching for recommendations I discovered there is a whole Bourbon Trail! We knew we could spare 3 days and that is exactly how many days the official trail page suggested. Piers agreed and we decided to follow the general plan laid out by the Bourbon Trail website – we would start in Louisville and finish up in Lexington.
The Kentucky Bourbon Trail Passport
There is a Bourbon Trail Passport and if you get stamps for all 10 distilleries on the trail, you get a t-shirt at the end. Well, we aren’t that interested in a t-shirt but it seemed a cool idea to try and do the WHOLE trail. That means 10 stamps ie 10 locations! (There are 12 places on the trail but 2 of them each have 2 different locations and you can get a stamp at either location)
Initially, we planned to book the tours online in advance for all those that require reservations, but then I started to wonder if Piers will actually manage to go on 10 tours! He isn’t one to love tours and museums! So we have decided to play it by ear .. so follow along to see how it goes.
**Note: From my research I can see this would not be a good idea if you went in summer (we were there in October). In summer, you HAVE to book or you don’t get to go on the tours as they get booked up really quickly.
What you also need to know is that I don’t drink bourbon and am not at all interested in learning about how it is made. So – I will be finding places to work while he tours and samples and I will blog about that in case there will be others who go on the Bourbon Trail who also aren’t interested.
We want this to be a low-cost trip so decided to use the points we have accumulated on our IHG card to cover hotel costs. We have booked 2 nights at the Candlewood Suites near Louisville Airport, then 1 night in Frankfort at a Holiday Inn Express and the final night at another Holiday Inn Express in Lexington.
Food and Exercise
We like interesting food – so we plan to try and find that as we travel around Kentucky. I will use the Afar app and Tripadvisor primarily when I look for eating locations.
Eating well means we need to keep up our exercising. So we will be sure to share how we do that too.
Day 0: We arrive in Kentucky!
We arrived in Louisville around 6 pm so had time for our first food and drink experience that night.
This bar is in an old church and they have created a wonderful ambiance. I ordered a cider which was great and Piers had his first Flemish beer – and discovered he doesn’t really like Flemish beer Very sour, I believe!
This was a great place! Fun background music and a menu so tempting that we ate too much! We decided to order 3 items from their tapas menu and share them – Guacamole and plantain chips, a flatbread with tomatoes and goat cheese baked and chicken empanadas.
So very delicious. Go there when you are next in Louisville!
Our 3 Day Plan
Day 1: Bulleit Frontier Whiskey Experience, Angel’s Envy Distillery, Evan Williams Bourbon Experience, Jim Bean Urban Stillhouse
Day 2: Heaven Hill Bourbon Heritage Center, Makers Mark Distillery, Four Roses Distillery, Wild Turkey Distillery
Day 3: Woodford Reserve Distillery, Town Branch Distillery (plus a bonus distillery)
We decided to have a lazy start to the day so it was late morning by the time we took our last stroll to the Waterfront.
The girls wanted to get fries from Steers for lunch, and the adults opted to visit the Food Market which we had walked past every day. There are lots of different options and we chose samosas. They were OK – but nothing special. What was special was sitting at the outside tables, enjoying the view and listening to the street musician who had set up near us.
Our final exursion was to take the cableway up Table Mountain. We bought the tickets online a few days before as that is the cheaper way to do it. You can get a refund if the weather turns bad so there is no risk involved and it also means you skip the ticket lines. An adult ticket costs about $20. We drove to the cableway station, but you could also take an Uber.
You can wait in long lines to get on a cable car, but as we were there at the end of May, we just walked straight on. Be sure to take warm clothes as it often windy at the top and always quite a few degrees colder than at the base.
We spent about an hour walking around the top. You can see for miles on a clear day. Watch out for the wildlife! We saw quite a few dassies (rock-rabbits).
We also saw a bride and groom!
We would love to have been up top as the sunset but the cableway closes down at that time each day so we had to content ourselves with watching it once we had reached the base station again.
Cape Town is known for its many world-class restaurants and we chose one to eat at for our final meal in Cape Town – the Shortmarket Club. We booked weeks ahead – you can’t just arrive! Read the rave reviews on Tripadvisor!
The restaurant is tucked away upstairs on a pedestrian-only street and we needed to use our GPS to find it. But once you do find it, you step into a world of excellent service and memorable food. Each dish was unique in the way it combined ingredients, and in the presentation. We each chose different starters, entrees, and desserts and no one was disappointed with their selections.
It was the perfect ending to an amazing 5 days in Cape Town.
I have been fortunate to travel to many of the world’s major deserts such as the Sahara and the Arabian Desert. All of them beautiful in their own way. But far the most scenic desert that I have experienced is the Namib desert in Namibia, South Africa. Of the over 31,000 square miles of the Namib Desert, I have only seen a small portion, but perhaps the visually striking. The area known as the Sossusvlei is a salt and clay pan, surrounded by some of the biggest dunes in the world. Due to the level of oxidized iron deposits in the dunes, they present in a strong orange or red color.
Origins of the Vlei
The term Sossusvlei is of Afrikaans/Nama origin. The term “vlei” (pronounced flay) refers to a shallow lake or marsh. Sossus means “no return”, hence the English translation is “Dead-end lake” or dead-end vlei. When you travel there it is evident why, although you won’t find any water. You travel down a dry valley that starts out wide and becomes increasingly narrow. Imposing sand dunes, in v formation, bound the valley. At the end of the valley is the area, pictured above, called Deadvlei – sometimes referred to as Dead-End Vlei. Getting to this part requires a four wheel drive vehicle, but there is a shuttle service provided from the car park to the vlei if you don’t happen to have a four-wheeler.
Deadvlei is an incredibly fascinating geographical phenomenon. The floor of the vlei (which is occasionally flooded in the rare years when there is substantial rain) is made of white, salty deposits that are like concrete under the feet. Trapped in this rock-solid base layer are petrified Acacia trees that form haunting silhouettes against the orange backdrop of the towering dunes.
How to Get There
Sossusvlei is definitely a destination. Getting there is not like traveling on the autobahn’s of Germany or the highways of the North America. The easiest is by light aircraft to one of the many small landing strips. But that is only practical if you are staying at a hotel or lodge that provides package tours to the vlei. Otherwise, you drive – over miles of dirt road, some very, very bumpy.
Where We Stayed
We stayed at the Sossusvlei Desert Lodge part of the &Beyond Group of luxury lodges. I have been fortunate to stay at quite a few of these in South Africa, Kenya and now Namibia. This ranks as one of my favorites. It is small and the level of intimate service is amazing. We will do a complete post on this lodge, so watch for that. As part of our package costs, they organized the trip the Dead Vlei, including breakfast, Out of Africa style, among the dunes. If you are a hardcore photographer, you may consider staying at the Sossus Dune Lodge or the Sesriem Camp Site for at least one night. These give you early morning and late afternoon access to the area before the park gates are opened to the public.
This place is a desert, so we recommend not going in the heat of summer!
On a personal note, this trip was special to me because my father was born in Namibia (South-West Africa at the time). Despite growing up in Southern Africa, I had never been to Namibia. The ranger allocated to us by the Sossusvlei Desert Lodge pointed out to me that in some respects I had come home. He welcomed me as a fellow Namibian.
** Please note: Some of the links in this post are affiliate links. You don’t pay more but we make a small amount if you purchase through the link.
If you missed my earlier posts, be sure to read about Day 1, Day 2 and Day 3.
Monday morning was spent on a tour to Robben Island, where Nelson Mandela was imprisoned for 18 years. I had done this years ago with our oldest daughter and it had been very memorable but after reading many negative reviews on Tripadvisor I was worried it wouldn’t be as good this time.
However, I didn’t feel we could miss out on the experience with my youngest daughter and her friend (both 17), so I went ahead and booked tickets about a month earlier. Tickets sell out so it isn’t advisable to wait until you are there to buy them. You can buy them online. Tickets cost about $25 for adults and $15 for children.
The boat to the island leaves from the Waterfront and we arrived about 30 minutes early (you have to go through security). The boat trip is included in the price of the ticket. Try to sit (or stand) outside as your view from inside is rather limited. The boat ride is about 30 minutes each way and you spend about 3 hours on the island ie the whole tour is around 4 hours. If you are lucky you will see seals – we weren’t! But you do have a great view of Table Mountain and the Harbor.
Boat trip to Robben Island. Photo by Amy van der Merwe
Once you reach the island, you are divided into smaller groups and you get on a bus with a guide. Our guide was very funny, but his accent made it difficult for foreigners to follow what he was saying. He told us about those who tried to escape and showed us various landmarks and places of interest. You get out of the bus at one point and can buy snacks, take photos etc.
View from Robben Island. Photo by Amy van der Merwe
Once the bus tour was done, we were handed off to another guide – who had been a prisoner here – and he took us inside the prison. He explained what the life of a prisoner was like – everything from their arrival, to what meals were like and getting visitors. We then got to walk past Nelson Mandela’s cell.
Nelson Mandela’s Cell. Photo by Amy van der Merwe
We also walked at our own pace through a number of other cells which had artifacts made by prisoners in them. On the walls, there were short written articles about the prisoners.
I was so glad we did do the tour – and so were the girls. It is a very moving experience which was made even more poignant by the quiet dignity of our guide. It was hard imagining him going through what he did.
Lunch at San Marcos
Back at the Waterfront, we met my ex-boss from many many years ago when I worked as a programmer at Shell in Cape Town. We chose to eat at San Marco as they have outside seating and we could enjoy the view and our sandwiches at the same time.
After lunch, the girls did some shopping at the Waterfront stores (Lush in particular) and then we spent a few hours back at the apartment resting/sleeping.
Supper at Nando’s
Before supper, we stopped at Pick n Pay supermarket in Seapoint to stock up on South African foods to bring home. We had left plenty of space in our bags as we knew we needed to buy for gifts – and for ourselves!
For 4 days my daughter had been waiting for a taste of her favorite South African “fast food” – Nando’s. It is Portuguese-inspired peri peri chicken. You can get lemon and herb if you aren’t a fan of “hot food – or you can get “very hot” if you are. Nando’s has become so popular that you can now find them in many major cities around the world and you can buy their sauces on Amazon.
Then it was time to head back to our beautiful apartment at the Waterfront.
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